We ended our last morning in Istanbul exploring the Asian shore of the city. The ferry ride over gave us beautiful views of the skyline of the city. It was fun to take my first steps into Asia, see more beautiful mosques and to have the opportunity to explore a more residential part of the city. That afternoon we boarded a plane to Bodrum, a coastal town on the Aegean Sea. By around four in the afternoon, we were checked into our very cute bed and breakfast, with views of indigo blue sea and rocky cliffs in every direction, and headed off to the beach. Since it was so early in the season the water was frigidly cold, but the sun was hot enough that it didn’t matter too much. We found a little restaurant on the beach that specialized in ‘mezes’ (think Turkish tapas) and seafood. Stuffed grape leaves, grilled octopus, red mullet with lemon and arugula and some fruit and raki (think Turkish sambuca) for dessert was the perfect way to end a really great day. (more…)
Between two worlds life hovers like a star,
‘Twixt night and morn, upon the horizon’s verge.
- George Gordon Noel Byron
In addition to having an endlessly fascinating history, Istanbul is one of the only cities in the world that is perched between two continents, Asia and Europe. This sense of living between two worlds, east and west, permeates Turkish history, culture and life. In many ways Istanbul feels like a large European city with lovely shops, sophisticated restaurants and hip night clubs. Wander the twisted streets of the old Sultanahamet district or gaze up at the minarets of the Blue Mosque silouhetted against the night sky and you will feel as if you are in the Middle East. (more…)
One of the things that I love most about travel is it’s ability to pull you headfirst into the present moment. The sights, the sounds and the smells are all brand new, forcing the mind to engage in the present moment. As I discovered when arriving in Turkey, a trip to the local market to buy a bag of cherries is infinitely more memorable when attempting to bargain for them in an unfamiliar language. Your morning coffee takes on a deeper significance when every table in the cafe is filled with retired Turkish men arguing over backgammon. Being greeted at our hotel with a platter of pistachio studded Turkish delight and hot apple tea was a small moment, but one that I will not soon forget. In the same way, being awakened by the muezzin’s call to prayer echoing across the city felt decidedly exotic. I found myself wondering if this hauntingly beautiful sound, at some point, becomes ‘everyday’ for the average Turkish person. The crowded alleys of the spice markets, redolent with cardomon, saffron and cinnamon were fascinating to me, but perhaps to the women pushing their way through the crowds they were just another errand to check off of their to-do list. The wonderful thing about travel is that even the most prosaic moments feel exotic and the everyday experiences that we take for granted become memories.
