Between two worlds life hovers like a star,
‘Twixt night and morn, upon the horizon’s verge.
- George Gordon Noel Byron
In addition to having an endlessly fascinating history, Istanbul is one of the only cities in the world that is perched between two continents, Asia and Europe. This sense of living between two worlds, east and west, permeates Turkish history, culture and life. In many ways Istanbul feels like a large European city with lovely shops, sophisticated restaurants and hip night clubs. Wander the twisted streets of the old Sultanahamet district or gaze up at the minarets of the Blue Mosque silouhetted against the night sky and you will feel as if you are in the Middle East. (more…)
One of the things that I love most about travel is it’s ability to pull you headfirst into the present moment. The sights, the sounds and the smells are all brand new, forcing the mind to engage in the present moment. As I discovered when arriving in Turkey, a trip to the local market to buy a bag of cherries is infinitely more memorable when attempting to bargain for them in an unfamiliar language. Your morning coffee takes on a deeper significance when every table in the cafe is filled with retired Turkish men arguing over backgammon. Being greeted at our hotel with a platter of pistachio studded Turkish delight and hot apple tea was a small moment, but one that I will not soon forget. In the same way, being awakened by the muezzin’s call to prayer echoing across the city felt decidedly exotic. I found myself wondering if this hauntingly beautiful sound, at some point, becomes ‘everyday’ for the average Turkish person. The crowded alleys of the spice markets, redolent with cardomon, saffron and cinnamon were fascinating to me, but perhaps to the women pushing their way through the crowds they were just another errand to check off of their to-do list. The wonderful thing about travel is that even the most prosaic moments feel exotic and the everyday experiences that we take for granted become memories.
The wine world lost a giant this week when Robert Mondavi, champion of California wines, died. His importance as the father of American wine can not be overstated. In his honor, I want to share one of my favorite quotes with you from his autobiography, “Harvests of Joy”
Wine is art. It’s culture. It’s the essence of civilization and the art of living. Wine has been with us for seven thousand years, almost since the dawn of civilization and for centuries poets, painters, musicians and philosophers have sung it’s virtues…. When I pour a glass of truly fine wine, when I hold it up to the light and admire it’s color, when I raise it up to my nose and savor it’s bouquet and essence, I know that wine is above all else, a blessing, a gift of nature. It is a joy as pure and elemental as the soil and vines and sunshine from which it springs. “Wine is Life” Petronius said two thousand years ago and I know exactly what he meant
Last fall I had the opportunity to experience a ‘dream vacation’ hiking to Machu Picchu in Peru. It was a beautiful, challenging and transformative experience. I am grateful to Brava Magazine for giving me the opportunity to write an article on my experiences in their May 2008 issue which I am happy to share with you here. I hope that you will share your own ‘dream vacations’ and experiences hiking with me too!
Climbing To The Top
Somewhere near the top of Dead Woman’s Pass on the Inca Trail in Peru, I began to doubt whether I would make it to my ultimate goal; the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu. Walking along a rocky trail that, over the past few hours, had become increasingly challenging, I was enveloped in self-doubt and fear. I took as deep a breath as the altitude would allow and hiked on. Six days earlier, a friend and I had arrived in Cuzco, a small town in the Andean highlands. Our plan was to spend three days exploring the area and acclimating to the 12,000-plus-foot altitude before starting our four-day hike along the classic Inca trail. The trail we would be walking along — part of the original network of trails from the era of the Inca Empire — winds its way through the Andes and passes through a series of steep inclines, rocky steps, overgrown jungle and cloud forest. Everything about the experience was new to me. (more…)
